How To Maintain Your Chimney And Pick The Right Firewood

Who doesn’t love the smell of wood smoke on a crisp fall day? Or the fun of making s’mores over a crackling fire in the middle of winter? Enjoy the ambiance—and keep it safe and efficient—by pairing your fireplace or stove with current best practices: annual inspections per NFPA 211, burning only dry wood at or below 20% moisture as advised by EPA Burn Wise, and using working smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms on every level of the home (NFPA CO guidance).

But it’s not quite as easy as you might think. Heating equipment is a leading cause of home fires, and failure to clean chimneys—allowing creosote to build up—is a major factor in heating-related fires (NFPA home heating). Before you light anything, make sure your system is inspected, your venting is correct, and alarms are in place and tested monthly (NFPA).

Keeping the chimney clean and in good repair matters as much as the fuel you burn. The biggest performance and pollution differences come from moisture content and appliance design/operation: burn only dry wood at ≤20% moisture (verify with a moisture meter), store it correctly off the ground with top cover and side ventilation, and consider manufactured low‑moisture fuels (pellets or compressed wood bricks) that burn more consistently with lower particulate emissions in modern appliances (EPA Burn Wise; IEA Bioenergy).

And what happens if you do end up with a fire that burns out of control, despite all your efforts? Then your best ally is a good homeowners insurance policy, plus documentation of your inspections and cleanings to streamline claims—especially for smoke/soot cleanup and any code‑required upgrades during repairs (NAIC; Insurance Information Institute).

Keeping A Well Maintained And Safe Chimney

A well‑maintained chimney is your best defense against accidental house fires and venting failures. Current standards in the 2024 editions of NFPA 211 and NFPA 54 reinforce annual inspections, proper lining/sizing, and safe damper use. NFPA data show that heating equipment is a leading cause of home fires and that creosote buildup from failure to clean is a major contributor—so inspection and cleaning directly reduce risk (NFPA heating).

The National Fire Protection Association says you should inspect and clean your chimney at least annually, and make repairs as needed. Schedule before heating season (late summer/early fall). Use inspection levels correctly: routine Level 1 for systems in continuous service, and Level 2 with a video scan at property transfer, after a chimney fire or severe weather, or when changing appliances/fuels (CSIA; NFPA 211).

So what’s the best way to take optimal care of your fireplace? Here are a few things to consider:

Annual chimney inspection: Hire a qualified pro to perform a Level 1 inspection every year; request a Level 2 with internal video scanning at sale/transfer, after any known event (e.g., chimney fire), or when changing appliances/fuels. Video documentation helps catch cracked tiles, offsets, and concealed hazards and is increasingly standard practice (CSIA: three levels; HD flue cameras).
Chimney sweeps might seem like something out of Victorian England or Mary Poppins, but the profession is alive and well. Don’t rely on fixed counts like every 50 burns; instead, clean when inspection finds deposits or blockages (many pros clean at or before ~1/8‑inch of creosote). Modern rotary/power sweeping heads can remove tougher Stage 2 deposits faster than traditional brushes when used correctly, and glazed (Stage 3) creosote may require specialized mechanical tools plus professional chemical treatments. “Creosote‑sweeping” logs can help flake deposits but are only supplemental and do not replace professional sweeping (CSIA; EPA Burn Wise).
Waterproof your chimney: Repair crowns/chase covers and flashing; keep a sound seal and proper slope/drip edges to prevent water intrusion, which accelerates masonry and liner deterioration. Exterior masonry that passes through unconditioned spaces is especially vulnerable—consider insulated relining where appropriate (NFPA 211).
Make sure your damper works: Keep the damper closed when not in use to limit heat loss and open during use for safe draft. If you install a gas log set that vents through the chimney, the damper generally must be fixed open or equipped with a listed device that prevents closure, per code and manufacturer instructions (NFPA 54). In all cases, maintain smoke and CO alarms on each level and near sleeping areas (NFPA CO).
Install a chimney cap and cricket: A listed cap keeps out debris and animals and helps manage water. In wildfire‑prone areas, fit ember‑resistant screening; the 2024 residential code specifies spark arrestors with corrosion‑resistant mesh (commonly 3/8–1/2 inch openings—verify locally), and wildfire guidance also recommends ember‑resistant terminations (2024 IRC, Chapter 10; IBHS Wildfire Prepared Home).
Use binoculars to check the crown, flashing, masonry, and chimney termination for damage. Address cracked crowns, spalling bricks, failed flashing, or damaged caps promptly. Inside, smoke chambers should be parged smooth and firebox refractory panels maintained per specifications (NFPA 211).
Schedule work for late summer: You may wait longer during peak season (late fall–winter). Book inspections/repairs ahead of heating season, and after any chimney fire schedule a Level 2 inspection before reuse (CSIA).

Before You Start Shopping For Wood

Not all wood is created equal for clean, efficient burning. The key is moisture: agencies now standardize guidance to burn only dry wood at or below 20% moisture and verify with a meter. Plan storage so splits can season properly and stay dry (EPA Burn Wise).

Wood needs to age before it burns efficiently. Green wood should typically season 6–12+ months depending on climate and splitting; target ≤20% moisture to reduce smoke and creosote.
Wood stacked on a pallet or other platform stays drier and more insect‑free than if placed on soil. Keep the top covered but leave sides open for airflow to speed drying.
Sure, it’s convenient to stack your wood right outside the back door, but doing so invites pests indoors. Store on a flat surface roughly 20 feet from your home and away from vegetation.
There are different stacking methods (round stacks with a center void vs linear rows). Don’t dump logs in a pile—poor ventilation slows seasoning and can cause rot.
You can cover the top of your stack with a fireplace cover or tarp, but leave the front and back open for ventilation. Also, buy or gather wood locally to avoid transporting invasive pests—“buy it where you burn it” (USDA APHIS).

Of course, you can have your wood delivered and stacked for you, though you’ll pay more for the service. You’ll purchase your wood, most likely, by the face cord or full cord. A full cord is 8’ wide by 4’ high by 4’ deep; a face cord uses the same width and height but is typically one log deep (about 16–18”), roughly one‑third of a full cord. When air quality rules or no‑burn day restrictions are in effect locally, comply with the guidance and consider alternatives like pellets or gas appliances (DOE Energy Saver).

What Wood Is Best For You?

You don’t need to become a professional forester to build a fire, but you do need dry fuel and a properly operated appliance. Wet wood and smoldering, low‑temperature burns drive creosote and smoke; seasoned wood at ≤20% moisture and hot, clean burns reduce deposits and risk (EPA Burn Wise).

Hardwoods are denser and usually deliver longer burns per load; many softwoods ignite quickly and make excellent kindling. Manufactured fuels like pellets or compressed wood bricks are typically more uniform and cleaner because of their low moisture (often 5–10%) and controlled combustion in modern appliances (IEA Bioenergy; Environment and Climate Change Canada).

All wood coats your chimney with creosote—a flammable distillate—but the amount depends mostly on moisture and firing technique. Keep fires hot and avoid long smolders; never burn trash, treated or painted wood, or plastics due to toxic and corrosive emissions (EPA Burn Wise).

How much wood will you need? That varies with appliance, climate, and how often you burn. One estimate can help with planning, but remember: open fireplaces are largely decorative and consume more fuel, while EPA‑certified stoves/inserts and pellet appliances use wood far more efficiently and produce less smoke (DOE Energy Saver).

Hardwoods: These dense woods have lower levels of sap or pitch, which makes them easier to dry and more efficient to burn. The wood is denser and burns hotter than softwood.

Oak	Pros: High heat per cord; burns with steady heat when seasoned ≤20% moisture; widely available in many U.S. regions. Cons: Slow to season and can be harder to split; must be thoroughly dried to avoid smoke/creosote.
Birch	Pros: Lights easily and produces attractive flame; good heat output when dry. Cons: Burns relatively quickly; best mixed with slower‑burning hardwoods for longer heat.

Softwoods: Commonly used as building materials, softwoods come from coniferous and evergreen trees. Ironically, they are not necessarily softer than hardwoods, but they do tend to be stickier with high sap levels.

Cedar	Pros: Pleasant aroma; easy to split; excellent kindling when well‑seasoned. Cons: Can spark/pop—use a screen; use primarily as kindling and burn only when dry to limit deposits.
Pine	Pros: Good for kindling; seasons quickly; often inexpensive. Cons: Burns fast with lower heat per cord than hardwoods; if burned wet or smoldering it can rapidly increase creosote.

Artificial Woods: Artificial woods can be made of a mix of sawdust, wood chips, and/or nutshells; they are environmentally friendly and efficient burners, but can be pricey.

Wood Bricks	Pros: Uniform low moisture; steady, predictable output; less ash and easier storage. Cons: Typically higher cost per unit heat than cordwood; still requires proper chimney maintenance.
Wood Pellets	Pros: Very low moisture (often 5–10%) and controlled feed yield efficient, low‑smoke combustion in pellet appliances. Cons: Requires a pellet stove/insert and electricity; must be kept dry and may cost more than local cordwood (IEA Bioenergy).

Wood types to avoid completely:

Green wood: Freshly cut wood is too damp to burn; season until ≤20% moisture to avoid heavy smoke and creosote.

Painted/treated/engineered wood or trash: These can release toxic and corrosive emissions and damage your flue and appliance. Large rounds should be split before burning for clean combustion.

Poison oak, poison sumac, or any logs in contact with poison ivy—burning can aerosolize oils that irritate lungs. Also avoid driftwood (salt/chlorides) and don’t move firewood long distances due to invasive pests (USDA APHIS).

Environmental Considerations

Residential wood burning is a significant source of fine particle pollution. The European Environment Agency identifies household combustion as the largest source of primary PM2.5 in the EU, and 2025 UK statistics keep domestic combustion among the leading contributors—hence aggressive local controls and cleaner‑burning campaigns (EEA 2024; UK emissions statistics).

What most affects emissions is not species, but fuel moisture and appliance operation/design. Burning dry wood (≤20% moisture) in a modern, well‑operated, certified appliance sharply reduces smoke and PM compared with wet/green wood and older devices. Pellets and dense briquettes have very low moisture and often emit less PM in comparable modern appliances (EPA Burn Wise; IEA Bioenergy).

If you want real heat with less smoke, upgrade from an open fireplace to an EPA‑certified insert, stove, or a pellet appliance. Many certified models reach mid‑60s to 70s% HHV efficiency, and numerous catalytic/hybrid and pellet units meet or exceed 75% HHV—eligible for the federal 25C credit of 30% up to $2,000 annually when installed in 2025. Certified heaters must also meet strict particulate limits (2.0–2.5 g/h, depending on test method), further curbing smoke (EPA Certified Wood Heater Database; ENERGY STAR 25C; IRS 25C; EPA regulations).

Reduce your footprint by sourcing local, legally harvested wood (certified where available), storing it properly, and observing air‑quality rules. Many jurisdictions restrict wood burning on high‑pollution days—comply with no‑burn day advisories and consider alternatives during those periods (DOE Energy Saver; EU air‑quality limits).

Another way to lessen impact is rigorous maintenance: annual inspections and cleaning as needed keep systems efficient and reduce smoke. In wildfire‑prone regions, add ember‑resistant chimney screens and maintain defensible space to limit ignition from embers (IBHS Wildfire Prepared Home).

If you’re not married to the idea of toasting marshmallows over an open flame, consider a gas fireplace, an EPA‑certified wood insert, or a pellet stove/insert. Sealed, certified appliances deliver far more usable heat than an open fireplace with much lower emissions when operated with dry fuel and proper venting (DOE Energy Saver; EPA Burn Wise).

Preparing For An Accidental Chimney Fire

Even well‑maintained systems can have a chimney fire if creosote ignites or a system is over‑fired. Layer prevention and early warning: keep fuel dry, burn hot and clean, and consider connected flue‑temperature probes that provide real‑time over‑fire alerts and burn‑zone guidance; interlink smoke and CO alarms for whole‑home notifications (smart flue sensor example; EPA Burn Wise; NFPA heating safety).

If you do have a fire at your home that leads to damage, one of your first steps should be to call your homeowners insurance company. Find out if the loss is covered by your policy. Usually, the dwelling coverage portion of your policy covers you for damage to your home from named perils — including, in most cases, fire. Expect coverage for resulting water damage from firefighting, smoke/soot cleanup, reasonable temporary repairs, debris removal, and Additional Living Expense when the home is uninhabitable (ALE limits are often around 20% of the dwelling limit; Coverage B for other structures is often 10%—verify your policy). Ordinance or Law (code upgrade) coverage helps when repairs require updates like relining a chimney to current standards; consider higher limits for older systems (NAIC; III; TDI).

After the fire has been put out, do what you can to protect your property from further damage, such as covering holes with a tarp, and take photos to document the damage. Keep damaged components (e.g., cracked flue tiles) for the adjuster, save receipts for reasonable emergency repairs, and request a licensed chimney professional’s report to establish cause and scope. If you had to call the fire department to deal with the fire, you may have water damage as well as smoke and soot; smoke remediation of contents is typically covered subject to limits (III).

Fire that is contained in a chimney may not do visible damage to your home, but it’s still important to bring in a fireplace professional to see if damage to the lining has occurred, and to give you an estimate for repairs. After any chimney fire or known event, schedule at least a Level 2 inspection with a video scan before using the system again. Maintain inspection/cleaning records—they can help avoid disputes about pre‑existing deterioration, which is typically excluded, while sudden and accidental fire/smoke damage is covered. For soot‑only “puffback” events from furnaces/boilers, smoke cleanup is often covered, while repair of the failed equipment may require optional Equipment Breakdown coverage if offered (CSIA; NAIC; Travelers on puffbacks).

Outro

Although our ancestors have been building fires since they lived in caves, maintaining modern fireplaces or wood stoves today means following current standards and data. Get an annual inspection (Level 1 or 2 as appropriate) per NFPA 211, burn only dry wood at ≤20% moisture (EPA Burn Wise), consider ember‑resistant chimney screens where wildfire risk exists (IBHS), and upgrade from open fireplaces to EPA‑certified inserts or stoves for far higher efficiency and lower emissions (EPA database). Keep thorough inspection/cleaning records and the right homeowners insurance policy so that if something goes wrong, you’re protected and prepared.