Have you ever tried streaming something on Netflix only to have your episode of “The Office” interrupted by a buffering screen? What about that YouTube viral video everyone’s talking about that just won’t finish loading? Maybe you’ve just been trying to download a video of your granddaughter’s first communion and it’s taking forever. Before you change anything, run a few wired tests and measure more than just Mbps: check single- and multi-connection throughput, plus responsiveness/latency under load to spot bufferbloat. Useful options include Ookla Speedtest, Cloudflare Radar Speed, M‑Lab NDT, and Apple’s networkQuality (reports “responsiveness” under working conditions).
Slow internet can be a real drag in a world where the internet is everywhere and integral to so much in our lives. So, what do you do when your attempts to have movie night with Netflix or Hulu are thwarted by slow internet speeds? Or when you’re left out in the cold at the office water cooler because your internet isn’t fast enough for you to see the latest viral YouTube video? You need to increase your internet speed. But how? In the U.S., providers now publish “typical” speed and latency on standardized Broadband Consumer Labels, which you can compare against your own tests to see if your line is underperforming.
What’s Bogging Down Your Internet?
The first thing you should do is diagnose the problem. Start with a wired Ethernet test to isolate your access line from Wi‑Fi, then compare results over Wi‑Fi in the same room. Run tests at different times of day (peak and off‑peak) and use multiple methods: a multi‑connection test to gauge total capacity and a single‑connection test (e.g., M‑Lab NDT) to reveal transport or middlebox limits. Measure “latency under load”/responsiveness with tools like Apple’s networkQuality. Ookla explains why single- vs multi-connection results differ, and Ofcom’s panel methodology shows how to exclude in‑home variables when verifying an ISP link.
The weather
Weather can affect internet performance, but how depends on the access technology. Rain attenuation (“rain fade”) increases rapidly at higher radio frequencies. Engineering models from the ITU show that heavy rain can add roughly 1–3+ dB per km of loss at 26–39 GHz (5G/mmWave), which can force links to step down modulation and reduce throughput; at sub‑6 GHz, rain loss is typically negligible over cell‑site distances. Satellite services in Ku/Ka bands can see 10–20+ dB of slant‑path attenuation in intense rain, which operators counter with adaptive coding/modulation and power control. See ITU‑R P.838 (rain attenuation model), P.618 (Earth‑space links), P.676 (atmospheric gases), and P.840 (cloud/fog). By contrast, fiber is essentially immune to rain/fog attenuation; cable/DSL aren’t attenuated by rain in the air but can suffer from moisture ingress and storm damage. National operators describe these impacts and mitigations for HFC/DSL, fixed wireless, and satellite (NBN Co). Many real‑world slowdowns during storms are actually due to power/infrastructure outages, which you can see reflected in measurements like Cloudflare’s Outage Center and regulator reviews such as Ofcom’s post‑storm resilience analysis (Storm Arwen). For indoor Wi‑Fi at 2.4/5/6 GHz, outdoor rain has little direct effect; perceived changes are usually indirect (power blips, interference), though 60 GHz WiGig is strongly attenuated by atmospheric oxygen per ITU‑R P.676. Techwalla claims water droplets can absorb the radio frequency associated with Wi-Fi signal, thus partially blocking the signal. Of course, since most home Wi-Fi is deployed in the home, it seems strange that rain would hurt a typical person’s internet performance.
The site
Sometimes the destination is the problem. Even large platforms have outages—YouTube’s global incident shows that no one in the world could access it for a period. If one site is slow but others are normal, it’s likely not your connection. Check a few unrelated services (e.g., an image‑heavy site like Imgur and a text‑heavy forum) and, if you suspect a broader issue, look for corroboration on Cloudflare’s Outage Center. This helps you separate a website/CDN hiccup from an ISP or home‑network bottleneck.
The device
You might just have a slow phone. Outdated OS/browser versions, limited Wi‑Fi radios, and saturated storage/CPU all hurt browsing and streaming. Update your OS/apps, remove unnecessary extensions, and test with another device and a wired connection to the router to rule out in‑home Wi‑Fi. If a single device is slow but wired tests are fine, the issue is local. To understand whether single‑stream performance is the limiter, run a single‑connection test such as M‑Lab NDT alongside a multi‑connection test. For multi‑gig service tiers, make sure your computer and cables support 2.5 Gbps or better to avoid client‑side caps.
The number of users
Shared capacity is the core issue: when many people and devices use the same access link or Wi‑Fi airtime, everyone’s throughput falls and latency rises. Regulators consistently observe lower speeds at busy times than over 24 hours (Ofcom), and mobile busy‑hour traffic continues to outpace average traffic growth (Ericsson Mobility Report). Theoretically, most individual wireless routers can support up to 250 connected devices, according to Lifewire, but it’s certainly not ideal. Practical remedies: wire stationary devices with Ethernet; use modern Wi‑Fi (6/6E/7) with features that improve multi‑user efficiency; and enable Smart Queue Management/Active Queue Management (e.g., FQ‑CoDel) to control bufferbloat. Emerging low‑latency approaches like L4S are being deployed by operators and can reduce latency under load without sacrificing throughput—see an operator example here. Cloudflare Radar also shows predictable diurnal traffic spikes that align with the performance dips many households feel during prime time.
The presence of a virus
If you’re experiencing slow speeds on a desktop PC or a laptop, you should consider the possibility of a computer virus. Malware and potentially unwanted applications (PUA) can chew CPU, memory, and network bandwidth (adware, cryptomining), hijack DNS/proxy settings, or enlist devices in botnets that saturate your uplink. We recommend scanning your computer daily and there’s a plethora of free, reputable anti-virus programs to consider. For specifics: botnets commonly leverage compromised IoT/SOHO gear and can generate heavy background traffic (Cloudflare; DDoS trends); enable PUA protection to block adware that slows devices (Microsoft); use protective DNS; and harden home routers per NSA best practices (auto‑update firmware, change defaults, disable remote admin/UPnP unless required).
6 Ways to Increase Your Internet Speed
Now that we’ve looked at some of the more common causes (and potential fixes) for slow downloads and streaming, let’s talk about how to increase your internet speed. There are quite a few things you can do that can help kick your network into a higher gear. We’ll start with the less intensive tips and work our way up. As you make changes, re‑test using both multi‑ and single‑connection methods and check “latency under load” to confirm you’re improving responsiveness—not just raw Mbps (Ookla; Apple).
1. Update your internet browser
Believe it or not, part of the problem could be with your internet browser. Rendering engines, extensions, and site optimizations change over time, and mismatches can hurt page load speed—see the past case where a Mozilla engineer explained differences in how a major site behaved in certain browsers regarding YouTube and the Firefox internet browser. Keep your browser up to date, trim heavy extensions, and try another browser to isolate whether the slowdown is app‑specific.
Sometimes, if the pages aren’t loading or your download is taking too long, it could be worth trying a different browser. Also ensure hardware acceleration is enabled where appropriate, and confirm security tools or VPNs aren’t intercepting traffic in ways that cap throughput. Modern browsers auto‑update, but a manual check can catch stalled versions.
2. Change the ethernet cable
Ethernet cables are those cords that almost look like phone cables, but are slightly wider at the plug-in component. They plug into the back of the modem and the wireless router and different types work better or facilitate different speeds. Sometimes the problem with slow internet speeds could be with the cable, especially if you’re using an older type. For gigabit plans, Cat5e is usually sufficient for short runs; for multi‑gig (2.5–10 GbE) or longer runs, prefer Cat6/Cat6A. Try replacing the existing ethernet cable with a newer version. Also verify your computer’s NIC and the router’s ports support your plan’s top speed.
3. Move the router
Sometimes it’s literally as simple as moving the router. Walls and floors attenuate signals; higher‑frequency bands (5 GHz and especially 6 GHz) deliver higher peak rates but don’t penetrate as well as 2.4 GHz. Place the router centrally and elevated, and connect bandwidth‑hungry stationary devices by Ethernet to free up Wi‑Fi airtime. If you have 6 GHz‑capable gear (Wi‑Fi 6E/7), confirm 6 GHz is authorized where you live (Wi‑Fi Alliance).
4. Update the firmware on the router
All routers come with firmware that, on occasion, will need to be updated. This is done manually and most routers come with detailed instructions on how to determine your router’s information and finding the necessary updates. However, if you are having trouble with this or don’t know where to begin, we found this detailed wikiHow guide to be extremely helpful. By updating the router’s firmware, you can improve the connectivity and, perhaps more importantly, keep your wireless network secure from unwanted visitors. If available, enable automatic updates; also look for SQM/AQM options in the firmware to reduce latency under load, which can dramatically improve video calls and gaming responsiveness.
5. Purchase a new router
Routers can become obsolete long before the physical parts begin to fail. As wireless networking standards continue to improve, devices that were better suited for older standards start to show their age. In situations such as these, there might be nothing for it but to purchase a new router. In our review of the best wireless routers, we considered 136 models before arriving at our top picks. Today’s premium devices support Wi‑Fi 7 (802.11be) with Multi‑Link Operation, 320 MHz channels on 6 GHz, and 4K‑QAM for higher throughput and lower latency, alongside multi‑gig Ethernet ports—see the Wi‑Fi Alliance. Examples include the Netgear RS700S, Orbi 970 mesh, TP‑Link Deco BE95, Asus GT‑BE98, and eero Max 7. Match the router to your plan and home: mesh for larger/multi‑story homes, single routers for smaller spaces.
6. Consider a Wi‑Fi extender
We already mentioned how helpful simply moving your router can be. However, if this is inconvenient or not feasible and you’re still left with Wi‑Fi dead zones, the next best step could be to look into a Wi‑Fi extender. Just like it sounds, these handy devices can be plugged into power outlets and catch Wi‑Fi signal, and then release it with minimal interference. In our review, we covered two of the best models on the market with our focus primarily on reliability. For best results, avoid legacy single‑radio repeaters (which can halve throughput on shared wireless backhaul). Prefer tri‑band designs or Wi‑Fi 6E/7 extenders that can use a clean 6 GHz backhaul, and use wired/Ethernet backhaul if possible. Standards‑based multi‑AP systems like Wi‑Fi EasyMesh improve steering and backhaul management; Wi‑Fi 7 adds Multi‑Link Operation for more reliable, lower‑latency links (Wi‑Fi 7 overview). Early Wi‑Fi 7 extenders like TP‑Link’s RE800BE show strong performance when paired with compatible routers (independent review). For whole‑home coverage and seamless roaming (look for 802.11k/v/r support), a mesh system generally beats stacking multiple extenders (Wirecutter; PCMag guide).
Internet Speed FAQ
Does the U.S. have the fastest internet in the world?
Not the fastest, but also not the slowest! Fixed broadband and mobile rankings are separate and change every month. According to Ookla’s Speedtest Global Index, the U.S. has generally been a top‑10 country on fixed broadband in recent months, while on mobile it typically ranks below top 5G leaders like the UAE and Qatar. Always cite the latest month’s medians (download, upload, latency) from the Global Index. For additional perspective on mobile experience, see OpenSignal’s 2025 Global Mobile Network Experience Awards. Annual fixed broadband comparisons based on M‑Lab’s open data are also available via Cable.co.uk’s Worldwide Broadband Speed League (note that methodologies differ across these sources), and country performance can be sanity‑checked with Cloudflare Radar.
To interpret speeds in practice: providers advertise megabits per second (Mbps) while files are sized in megabytes (MB). Convert by dividing by 8 (Mbps ÷ 8 = MB/s). For example, a 600 MB file on a 400 Mbps connection downloads at about 50 MB/s in ideal conditions (~12 seconds), while single‑connection throughput may be lower than the multi‑connection peak depending on the app and network path.
How can I tell what speed my internet provider is charging me for?
The best way to do this would be to review your bill when it comes in the mail or, if you’ve gone paperless, access your account online. Most internet providers give you this option, especially those that are enabled for online bill pay. In the U.S., many plans now include standardized Broadband Consumer Labels showing typical download/upload speeds and latency. In the EU, the BEREC Open Internet Measurement tool provides a standardized way for consumers to verify contracted speeds under prescribed test conditions.
Is the internet service provider (ISP) to blame?
While it is certainly a possibility that the problem could be with your ISP, we recommend doing everything you can on your end first to rule out any other causes or issues. Test over wired Ethernet to the router/gateway, pause other downloads/streams, and run multiple tests at different times. Use a mix of tools and methods: Ookla Speedtest (supports multi‑ and single‑connection), Cloudflare Radar Speed, and M‑Lab NDT. Measure responsiveness/latency under load to detect bufferbloat with networkQuality. Using more than one test and checking latency under load gives a fuller picture of user experience.
If you do find yourself needing to call the ISP, they will likely ask you a series of questions and provide you with some actions you can take to try and improve the problem. They might refer to this process as troubleshooting. The ISP will test the signal coming into your home and compare that with the plan (and the speed) you’re enrolled in. If the signal is strong in your home based on the ISP’s signal test, then the fault lies in your home possibly with the equipment. Be ready to share wired results and steps you took to isolate Wi‑Fi vs access‑line issues. In the U.S., compare your results to the plan’s “typical speeds” on the FCC label. Regulators and independent reports use router/probe‑based methods to remove in‑home variables (Ofcom; FCC Measuring Broadband America), which is the gold standard for verifying ISP performance.
If All Else Fails
If, after all this, your internet is still too slow or doesn’t feel fast enough, it might be time to look at either upgrading your package or switching to another service provider. We’ve reviewed the best internet service providers as well and that list might be a great place to start shopping for another plan if all else fails. When upgrading, prioritize higher‑capacity and resilient access (fiber where available; next‑gen cable/FTTP) and modern CPE that supports SQM/AQM; if you rely on satellite or mmWave/Ku/Ka‑band links, expect performance reductions in heavy precipitation and plan around severe weather (ITU‑R P.618; NBN Co).
Fast Facts About Slow Internet
